on today's episode i'll show you how to install a bi-metal heat break
on your ender 3v2 it'll allow you to print hotter will make your ptfe last a lot longer
and may even give you better prints i'll explain it all on today's film is friday
filament friday is brought to you by the generous donations of these patreon supporters
in just about any creality 3d printer or creality clone
if you go to the temperature setting for the hot end it's going to max out at 260 degrees c
the reason for this is the ptfe tubing ptfe tubing can withstand temperatures as high as
260 degrees c so creality and its clones run the ptfe tubing all the way down to the nozzle
that means the ptfe tubing sees the full temperature up to 260 degrees if you've used
one of these machines for a while you will find that the ptfe tubing loses some of its
lubrication at temperatures below 260 then you get plastic sticking to the inside of that ptfe tubing
and that can be the difference between the chep cube on the left and the cheb cube on the right
the heat break on a creality hot end really isn't a heat break at all it allows the ptfe tubing to
go all the way down to the nozzle this is where a quality heat break like this copperhead heat
break from slice engineering can really help your printer slice engineering sent me a sample of the
ce heat break which is designed for the creality hot ends for me to try on my under 3. this one has
a block inside to stop the ptfe tubing from going all the way into the nozzle so it only goes about
halfway through here's the ptfe in and you can see it only goes about halfway through the heat break
so i'm going to show you how i installed it on my under 3v2
before you do anything heat it up and remove the filament from the machine the first step was
to remove the shroud and that's really just one screw and then pop this thing off from the side
the next step was to just remove the hot end from the bracket so i can easily work on it
there's just two screws holding it in place remove those and then you can remove the hot end
there are two screws on the bottom that need to be removed so you can separate the heat block from
the heat sink there's a grub screw on the front of the heat sink you need to loosen that it tightens
against the heat break so loosen it and then you should be able to pull this out of the heat sink
now you'll notice on mine the ptfe is coming with it because it's stuck inside there so i need to
heat this up so i put it in a vice grip and then i can heat it up i'm just going to go to the prepare
menu and then go down to preheat and then select just the hot end and then i'll go down to pla
we'll just heat it up to pla temperatures and once this thing's heated then i can remove the ptfe
tubing i'm just going to grab it with some pliers and pull it out this stuff is shot you can tell
by looking at it while this is still hot i'm going to use the pliers inside and just twist this thing
one quarter turn at a time until i can get it out of the heat block
next i'm going to take a wire brush and clean everything including down into those threads as
best i can then i'm going to flip it over and use my nozzle removal tool and take the nozzle out of
this thing once that's out clean that side of the block so this is all nice and clean
while it's still hot i'm going to put a brand new nozzle in it just start it then i'll use the
tool to tighten it all the way until it's tight and i'm going to back it off one half a turn
i want to install the new heat break by hand so i'm going to cool it down and while it does
let's take a look at this new heat break so here's the new one and let's compare it to the old one
you can see it's just slightly longer but definitely a different shape and a smaller
heat break section it's still warm but not too hot i'm going to turn this in by hand
i don't want to use a tool on this and mess up anything so i'm just going to turn it in by hand
i got the threads clean so it's a little bit tough but i should be able to screw this all the way in
so i just kept going until it stopped and then i want to tighten the nozzle
against this so there's no gap between them so i could feel it bottoming out
and once i did i stopped turning and now i'll flip this over and do the nozzle i turn the nozzle and
it only took a quarter turn to tighten so i know it tightened against the heat break
the ptfe tubing on this thing is shot so i'm just going to pull it out pull it all the way through
the heat sink and then i'm going to cut a new piece you can see the end of this is burned it's
bad so i have this capricorn tubing which is red clear it's one of their new colors so i put it in
my ptfe cutter cut a nice straight edge the same length and now i'm going to put this on my machine
you can see the stop inside the heat break i'll show you again how the ptfe tubing
will go in only about halfway so i'll push it all the way down and you can see it only goes about
halfway into this heat break slice engineering did give me some thermal paste they say it's really
not necessary but it does add some conductivity on some machine so i'm going to put it on here
i put it in the heat sink and then on the heat break so when i connect these two i get a little
better thermal conductivity so now i'm going to slide the heat sink back onto the heat break
and it goes all the way down until it stops inside the heat sink and then i tighten the grub screw
the next step is to reinstall these screws that hold the heat block to the heat sink
i've proved in a previous video they do very little to add heat creep to these hot ends
finally i remount the heat sink and tighten these screws you want to make sure these are tight you
don't want this hot and loose while it's moving around so make sure you get these nice and tight
so now i'll take the ptfe tubing put it into the coupling until it hits that stop inside the
heat break then i'm going to push the button and pull it out and we'll see how far that is
so put it next to it you can see it goes about halfway into the heat sink
now just to prove this thing is going to be cooler at the ptfe tubing i'm going to put
the fan back on and run the temperature up i'm going to set it to 250 degrees c
so there it's set to 250 now i'm gonna put a thermocouple down into where the ptfe tubing is
and where it stops and let this thing sit and see how hot it gets after a few minutes it settles out
and only gets to 46 degrees c so now this ptfe tubing will never see high temperatures again
i re-ran the auto level on the machine and then i ran my test print with pla and it looks great
i have this sealed spool of abs collido red filament so i'm going to try and print a chep
cube with that so i'm going to go into cura and i'm going to select the generic abs this will set
the temperatures for it but i'm going to use my profile with those temperatures so my 0.28 rough
print so it's not going to be a great print but you can see it's 240 degrees c and 80 degrees c on
the bed now i'm going to do one more thing because abs warps i'm going to add these anti-warping tabs
size 10 millimeters one at each corner just so this thing doesn't warp in the corners
that's a plug-in and cure i showed that in a previous video they're very handy i'm also going
to use just a little bit of glue on the glass bed to help hold this down so i sliced it 23 minutes
and here's what it looks like in preview mode but now i need to print it and see how it turns out
and here's the results this may not be the perfect temperature for that filament but it completed an
abs print and when i look at it up close it's not bad for 0.28 and it printed without warping
so i'm really happy with the results here and this heat break seems to be working good at this higher
temperature i was more concerned about pla because pla expands and if that heat break isn't perfectly
polished you can kick clogging i printed a bunch of these chep cubes and they came out perfect
there are clones of this bi-metal heat break on amazon and you can save a little bit of money
but some people have found that they're not as polished inside so over time you get build up
of plastic just like you do in the ptfe or the bi-metal actually separates over time
from the temperature because of the way they were built so you can save a little bit of
money but you are taking a gamble whether you got a good one or not so i prefer to go
with the slice engineering and if you buy through the link in my description below
you save five percent so i'd prefer the actual one and support the guys who created the original
and that way i know it works on my under three if you like what i'm doing here maybe check out
some of the other videos that are popping up and if nothing else click on that chep logo
and subscribe i'll see you next time right here the filament friday