Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette. In today's video, we're covering the jean scene
to help you distinguish between cheap and expensive blue jeans.
♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪
Today's video is part of our series on the differences between cheap and expensive menswear
items. In this installment, we're covering jeans - a hard-wearing, hard-working fabric
that rose to prominence on farms and ranges and now, also
graces high-fashion runways and the likes of those rich men who like to also pair them
with sport coats.
[scene from "The Simpsons"] Hank: "They laughed at me the first time I
wore jeans"
Hank: "with a sport coat. I was the first wealthy man
in America to ever do that. Now they all do it!”
When it comes to jeans, it seems like the gulf in prices could not be greater. How can
one pair of jeans cost $12 and another pair cost $1,200? Well, finding out why is exactly
what we'll be doing today. Let's get started with some definitions. We understand that
"cheap" and "expensive" are relative terms. What's cheap for a dedicated denim head who
invests in quality could be considered expensive for someone else. A central feature in our
"Is
It Worth It" series is determining whether iconic articles are worth their high prices.
A pair of designer jeans might cost hundreds of dollars, but the actual manufacturer of
the jeans could be comparable to a pair that cost dozens of dollars. Consider also that
"cheap" and "expensive"
include nuances of quality. A pair of well-made jeans might have a steep upfront cost, but
if they last for decades and return an excellent cost-per-wear
ratio. their expense is justified. Conversely,
if you buy low-quality jeans at a very low price, but have to replace those genes every
few months,
you might end up wasting a lot of time and resources. Finally, the average price of jeans
can vary greatly depending on where you live in the world - being generally cheaper in
North America and more expensive elsewhere. Taking that into consideration, what are your
upper and lower limits for cheap or expensive jeans? Let us know in the comments. For today's
video, we're defining jeans
that retail at $30 or less as cheap, and $200 or more as expensive. Again, we recognize
that those figures might not exactly reflect your individual finances and priorities. But,
we hope that it's a good fit for today's discussion. After all, fit is so important with jeans.
[scene from "Seinfeld"]
Comparing fabric. When comparing menswear articles,
it helps to start with basics. And what's more basic than fabric? By definition, jeans
are made from denim - a fabric made from sturdy cotton that is twill woven with a distinctive
diagonal pattern from the twill weave. Denim has been around since the 17th century, but
jeans as we know them today really came to prominence in the second half of the 19th
century - as covered in our assessment of one of the most famous makers of modern jeans,
Levi Strauss & Co. As a workman's fabric, denim was valued for its durability and strength.
But, as jeans have increasingly become a fashion icon - even getting paired with sport coats
- additional qualities like softness, unique texture, and drape have become more important.
For
cheaper jeans, manufacturers employ low-quality cotton and often cut it with synthetic fabrics.
Not only are synthetics cheaper than 100% cotton,
they help ameliorate some of the problems produced by low-quality cotton like rougher
texture, reduce elasticity, and stiffness. Of course,
synthetics bring their own host of problems like appearing too shiny, stretching out,
and reducing breathability. Cheaper jeans' fabrics are also more likely to be cheaply
dyed with synthetic dyes that hold color unevenly, fade quickly, or have a slick and somewhat
sticky finish. It sounds like cheap fabrics for jeans are both cheap and of rather poor
value.
If only I could score some counterfeit jeans.
[scene from "The Simpsons"] Jericho: "Looks like good stuff."
Jericho: "Of course, I'll have to sample it first."
Jericho: "These are fabulous!"
Herman: "Yeah. Who would suspect that they're counterfeit jeans?"
But, it is necessary for high-volume, mass-scale manufacturers to opt for cheap fabrics. Expensive
raw materials cut into profit margins. Cotton isn't necessarily a luxury fabric but, as
we covered in our guide,
it comes in a variety of quality levels and improved quality increases prices.
Among expensive jeans, the full potential of high-quality
cotton jeans becomes apparent. Expensive jeans are often made from cotton that is softer
and more pliable or will become so after several wears after you break them in. They also tend
to have a more natural, more flattering drape,
and some examples can even partially mold to your body shape. Expensive denim is also
recognizable by its beautiful hues as quality dyeing processes allow for the transfer of
rich,
lustrous, and vibrant color. Although, quality dyes are not without some issues. Most famously,
many indigo dyes can transfer when wet. This inconvenience however is a byproduct of the
very qualities that make this kind of dye superlative -
like strong color and pigment resilience. You can also find specialty jeans fabrics.
Raw denim refers to denim that hasn't been treated or washed after dying. It has a dynamic
and vigorous color, and a stiff, crinkly hand. Raw denim molds, softens, and elegantly fades
as you wear it and is considered by many the epitome of jeans fabric. Jeans fabric can
also be finished in unique ways like the much-vaunted selvedge denim. "Selvedge" refers to fabrics
that are self-edged or self-finished, and salvaged jeans are immediately recognizable
by their interior finished edge. Selvaged denim can only be made on special looms and,
in most cases,
anyone going through the trouble of making selvaged
denim will not skimp elsewhere. Want to learn more about selvaged denim? Let us know in
the comments below, and you might see a new installment of it
in our "Why So Expensive" series. Expensive jeans are made from expensive fabrics because
high-quality fabrics demand a high price. That quality can also require special care
and treatment, bringing up our next section. Comparing care. It's no surprise that many
menswear items require specialized care and cleaning routines. But, some people are surprised
to hear that they might need to handle their jeans with kid gloves. I mean, do you think
these guys brought fabric softener and distilled water with them while out on the range?
But, how you care for your jeans can have a massive impact on their quality, which is
exacerbated by the initial price of the jeans. Cheap jeans are usually sold with the understanding
that consumers want minimal muss and fuss.
These jeans are listed as being machine-washable, often even at high temperatures to remove
dirt and grime. However, because of the cheap quality of the jeans fabric, that washing
will do a lot more than just get your trousers clean. Cheap jeans can fade in the wash. They
can collapse and become baggy.
Cheap jean fabrics are usually finished to give them a more pleasing drape and hold,
but even one washing can strip those finishing agents, leaving the jeans puddling and lank.
Cheap jeans are more likely to shrink excessively or to develop a slick, unfinished texture,
and cheap jeans can even come loose or tear along the seams, especially when knocked around
in a dryer. Things get even more complicated with expensive jeans. Remember that raw denim
we mentioned? Some purists insist that it should never be washed - only meticulously
spot cleaned. Avoiding washing is the only way to keep raw denim rich and vibrant as
it minimizes general fading that will make your jeans appear washed out.
It will also create a visual interest and contrast between areas of natural fading like
stress points at the knees and the body of the jeans, which will retain their lustrous
original hue. We recognize, however, that, for many people, this is not practical; in
which case, you can follow the precise care instructions outlined in our washing guide.
Expensive jeans can also require a longer breaking-in period, requiring multiple wears
before becoming soft and pliable. Although like a good pair of shoes, breaking in jeans
like these will produce a superior fit, comfort, and feel.
These proliferations of rules regarding expensive denim can be confusing. But, the fact of the
matter is such steps are necessary to maintain the quality that make denim jeans such a valued
item.
And while expensive jeans can be difficult to care for, that investment of care will
allow you to enjoy the superlative qualities of your jeans for much longer. Comparing construction
and features.
Along with fabric, the cost of manufacturing jeans represents one of the biggest capital
investments, and construction methods can vary greatly between cheap and expensive jeans.
Cheap
jeans are almost entirely produced in developing nations. Reduced labor costs make cheap prices
feasible. Patterns for these jeans are often flat and poorly designed; meaning that, when
actually worn, jeans can sit uncomfortably, bunch, puddle, and generally look unappealing
and feel uncomfortable
because they weren't patterned and sewn with good fit in mind. Cheap jeans will usually
have low-quality
stitching with low stitch densities and cheap thread that easily breaks and looks ragged.
It can sometimes compromise the seams of the jeans themselves. In addition to skimping
on fabric and labor, cheap jean manufacturers will also cut corners on other materials like
the metal rivets.
Rivets were originally designed to reinforce stress points on jeans, increasing their longevity.
On cheap jeans, these rivets are mostly cosmetic, serving no structural purpose; often appearing
dull,
tarnished, and cheap-looking. Some cheaply-applied rivets can even stain and damage the fabric
around them., ironically doing the exact opposite of their original intended purpose. Oof! Do
these jeans come with a free tetanus shot? And don't get us started on cheap zippers
that come off the track, break off,
or freeze up. Construction also plays a major role in functional and aesthetic features.
For jeans, one of the most important features is pockets. On cheap jeans, there will usually
be a minimum of three to four pockets; usually two in the front and one or two in the back.
For most of us, that's probably enough. But, because of poor design execution,
many of these pockets don't actually work because they've been improperly sewn and applied.
Pockets that are too small or tight to hold items like a wallet, your keys, or your phone
- or that do so but create an unsightly bulge or outline. Might as well not be there at
all. Cheap jeans usually have poorly thought out production because design and labor represent
a major sink for resources and, to maintain a lower price point, construction has to be
bare bones. On expensive jeans, greater attention will be paid to overall design. Patterns will
be cut to ensure a comfortable, sculpted, and movable fit, and jeans will be assembled
with a greater emphasis on quality control. Now, we're not saying that expensive denim
is always handmade by artisanal craftsmen. But, in general,
at expensive prices, you can expect finer detailing like organic, elastic pattern assembly,
excellent stitching, available in interesting complementary colors for added visual interest,
and features that work; rivets will actually function or, at the very least, be more visually
pleasing, zippers will slide without issue, and pockets, often available in more arrangements,
will hold your items securely without appearing bulky. You can even put a pocket watch in
that little pocket. Did you know that that's what it's originally for? Comparing fit. In
addition to how construction affects how the jeans lay on your body, jeans are also cut
to fit certain styles. To ensure general appeal, cheaper jeans are usually only available in
mid or low-rise.
The popular perception is that these rises are more
comfortable and appealing. Even though, when properly sized and fitted, high-waisted jeans,
like higher-waisted trousers in general, are ideal for most men. When dealing with razor
thin margins, we suspect that the manufacturers of cheap jeans also prefer lower-rise jeans
because they are easier to make and require less material. Lower costs also make cheaper
jeans more responsive to trends. When jeans can be pumped out inexpensively
and easily,
they're better able to keep up with whatever the latest fad is. However, to avoid retooling
factories,
this often means that cheaper jeans can only be found in trendy cuts - making it more difficult
to find cuts that actually work with your body. Cheap jeans favor unflattering or trendy
cuts because they are easier to make, and they're also easier to sell. And when jeans
have to appeal to the mass market, cheap jean manufacturers will ignore timeless, classic
cuts and go all in on whatever will sell most quickly. Expensive jeans can be made available
in a much wider range of cuts because designers have a greater emphasis on what actually works
and is comfortable,
rather than what can be sold cheaply and quickly. You're much more likely to find classic cuts
available at expensive jean retailers. Because of higher upfront costs, most expensive jeans
are designed to follow more middle-of-the-road, timeless styles, so they can be sold at any
time,
regardless of trends. Of course, a big exception to this rule will be designer jeans. But,
as already discussed, designer jeans are a beast unto themselves - something of a jean
genie if you will.
♪ "The Jean Genie" by David Bowie ♪
Having outlined the main differences between cheap and expensive jeans, we can make some
general conclusions. Cheap jeans tend to produce an inferior wearing experience. Low-quality
fabric construction is uncomfortable and unappealing, and cheap jeans tend to be perhaps a little
too rough -
even for those famously rough-wearing garments. Expensive jeans, on the other hand, offer
a unique and exceptional wearing experience that really highlights the sartorial potential
of jeans, but at an increased cost at not only money, but also time and attention for
adequate care and maintenance.
Ultimately, the right jeans for you will depend on why you want the jeans. If you're primarily
interested in jeans is a hard-wearing, reliable trouser for doing chores and work around the
house, your main concerns will likely be comfort and durability, and moderately priced or even
cheap jeans could be the answer to your needs. If you want your jeans to be a regular feature
in your wardrobe,
especially when styled as a centerpiece and a classic ensemble, the rich colors and unique
textures of expensive jeans might be worth the extra effort to care for them. Ultimately,
good denim is whatever denim is good for you and are diametric between cheap and expensive
jeans.
We left a sizeable mid-range of between $30 and $200, which might be a sweet spot for
you as well.
But, what do you say? Let us know in the comments if you regularly shell out for expensive jeans
or if you think spending more than $30 on jeans is crazy. Today, I'm wearing a tan
Ralph Lauren polo with a dark wash denim, brown chukka boots, and some brown shadow
stripe socks from Fort Belvedere. Check out the Fort Belvedere shop here for socks like
these.
♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪