I was born in Australia
and then when I was about three or four
they decided to move back to California
My dad was a ski instructor, and a surfer
and when he decided to move back to California
he was looking at two houses
One was on the beach and one was in the mountains
and he decided to live close to the beach
and they moved right here
to Cardiff
I'm pretty lucky where I live right here
I have some world class waves
North County
it's my favorite spot
Surfing is a very challenging sport
Not only is it difficult to do physically,
but mentally it is something
that challenges you every single day
You have to develop a very
good relationship with Mother Nature
and have patience
and you can never ever ever feel
like you're in control of the situation
because Mother Nature will find a way
to put you back in your place
I just got this room a couple of months ago
so I've just been experimenting
and learning how to shape, myself
It's called the garage project
It's actually with Channel Islands Surfboards
It's basically like research and development
They give me creative control to experiment with all kinds
of different surfboards and designs
in hopes that we find something amazing
It's everywhere! It wraps around my face
I can't see anything
It's like those sheepdogs
just hangs down
Yeah, sometimes it's annoying
but I like it