[music]
To get a better sense of the pagan roots of Carnival,
we head to Slovenia.
For centuries, the Alps have sheltered these high isolated villages
from the influences of distant cities.
Tiny communities like Dreznica have
preserved ancient pagan traditions
even as they've embraced Christianity.
The festivities begin as night falls.
Anticipating what's ahead, villagers retreat indoors,
leaving the streets deserted.
At the stroke of midnight,
the street lights are turned off
and darkness swallows the village.
Village bachelors carrying fiery torches
sing a romantic song about the moon.
Their song erupts into a cacophony as they
begin marching through the streets.
[banging and clanging]
As they parade noisily through the village,
their clanging and banging announces that Carnival has arrived.
[clanging and banging]
Before sunrise, the bachelors gather at the local pub
where they transform into an ancient cast of characters
come to life in this centuries-old celebration.
The young men cajole each other as they get into character.
As is done each year,
a smoldering fire is lit in a wooden wagon.
The smoke evokes a pagan scene around the animal-skinned men
called "the Ugly Ones."
The procession's somber leader sets the pace,
followed by the accordionist playing the town's Carnival polka.
The bachelors, who wear fluttering ribbons, are "the Beautiful Ones."
The parade is a cast of traditional characters,
such as "the Doctor,"
and a "Gypsy" who offers to repair the town's tools.
The "Old Couple" represents the village elders.
The lottery wagon suggests everyone's a winner,
followed by an odd character called "the Lucky One,"
carrying a rooster that will be raffled off.
The wild card "Cop" brings up the rear.
Disguised by masks they carved themselves,
the trailing Ugly Ones make a racket with
huge bells to scare off winter and its evil spirits.
They move alongside "the Devil," keeping a
watchful eye out for boys they'll later chase.
The Beautiful Ones eventually separate from
the others, stopping to knock at every door
in the village.
When the homeowner greets them, an animated debate ensues.
[lively chatter]
Eventually, they're invited in.
Once inside, music is played and toasts are
made to good health and a good harvest.
Back on the streets, the Ugly Ones are hunting
for teenage boys who one day will become
Ugly Ones themselves.
When caught, the boys are whacked with messy ashes.
Humiliated boys dream of the day when they'll
be initiated and become chasers themselves.
The Cop attempts to maintain order -- but, apparently,
wants this part of the tradition to remain a secret.
Slovenian Carnival traditions survive beyond
the mountain villages, and the country's
deep pagan roots thrive in towns like Ptuj,
and this is the undisputed Carnival capital of Slovenia.
On the Saturday before Ash Wednesday,
Ptuj throws a huge party called Kurentovanje.
The stars of the show are shaggy monsters called
"Kurents," fun-loving Slavic gods of hedonism --
sort of the Slovenian Bacchus.
Carnival spirit is in the air.
Men and boys help one another with
their heavy sheepskin costumes.
The boys are proud to be part of this once secret brotherhood.
Their outfits can weigh 40 pounds, which, with the addition of heavy metal bells and
handmade masks, transform the wearer into a scary Kurent.
The woolly mob rattles and clangs its way
from door to door to chase away evil spirits
and frighten off winter.
Eventually, the homeowner relents and comes out to meet them.
To quell the clamoring mob, the homeowner
offers the head Kurent a sausage,
and a few cups of wine for the gang.
They all swing their hips loudly with satisfaction.
This ritual is a remnant of the distant past
when families were persuaded to share food
during hard times.
Another band of characters roams from house to house.
It's a group of ploughmen pulling a colorful wagon
decked out in ribbons, representing
fertility and the coming of spring.
The homeowner is asked for permission to "plough for the big turnip."
The ploughmen then drag the fanciful plough
behind men dressed as horses.
This "wakes up the soil" in preparation for
a season of bountiful crops.
The cracking whips announce the procession.
After the symbolic ploughing and sowing,
the homeowner offers eggs and a sausage, and wishes
the merry band good health and a good harvest.
The festival is capped with a grand parade.
Thousands of visitors line the route.
Groups of villagers from near and far display
whatever symbolizes their trade or tradition.
[cracking]
The snap of whips keeps the noise level up
to ensure winter stays at bay.
The noisy highlight is the pack of 300
Kurents stomping through the streets.
Different villages have unique styles, but
they all swing their hips to get their bells
clanging as loudly as possible, as they sweep up
young women in the crowd in a woolly embrace
to usher in the spring.