Hello I'm Graham and I hope everyone's on a great day and welcome to part three
in this video tutorial series for new users to the panasonic lumix fz1000
camera now in today's video we're gonna look at the second of these
semi-automatic modes which is going to be the shutter priority or the aperture
priority mode now the choice between aperture priority and shutter priority
will depend on either your need for depth of field in notes which case you
will be using aperture priority or if you want to arrest any subject motion in
that case you'll be using shutter priority so for example if you are a
sports photographer then obviously a rest in subject motion blur is your
primary need or if you're a landscape photographer then you want depth of
field so you only using small apertures if you want both the arresting of
subject motion and depth of field then that's going to be your choice when we
use manual exposure and that we're looking at in the next video so today we
will look at both the aperture and shutter priority how to set up both of
those modes up how to apply exposure compensation and how to get the best
image quality from both those modes so let me set the camera up so it can film
the back of it and we'll start the tutorial so we're currently in the
program auto mode indicated by the P icon on the LCD screen
first of all we'll look at shooting in the aperture priority mode and the
aperture priority mode gives you the opportunity to set the apertures you
want to give you the amount of depth of field that you want in a shot the
smaller the aperture the more depth of field the bigger the aperture the less
depth of field so to engage the aperture priority mode we turn the top mode dial
so the a aligns with a white index mark on the flash housing and again that's
indicated by the fact that we get an a appearing on the LCD screen now as with
program auto we could use the back control dial to affect either the
aperture or the exposure value compensation remember exposure value
compensation as a means to correct the camera if the metering circuit under or
over exposures as a pitcher so if you picture loops too dark you will add some
exposure value a compensation to make it lighter or if the pictures too light
you'll take some out to make it darker so
at the moment we're shooting this landscape shot and the moment my
aperture is f/4 so with a landscape traditionally you want a little bit more
depth of field so I want to use something like aperture of s 6.30 F 7.1
if you've got the camera set up for one evey increment you'll find that you can
even go from F 2.8 to f/4 to F 5 6 to f/8 but you've got it set to one-third
increments you'll get two extra positions between each of those full F
stops so as I know turn the back controlled out to the right you'll
notice that I'm using the one-third increment so I've gone from f4 to f5 to
5.6 and then you've got the two intermediate settings before you reach
the full f-stop so I want to set an aperture of f/16 3 it's well on our way
from the f8 or f7 point one which gives you a diffraction limited resolution so
he gets slightly softer pictures but if your aim is for just website pictures or
small prints then go ahead and use f8 you probably won't notice any difference
in that size of print it's only if you're going to be shooting large format
prints that you're not just that softening with the smaller aperture so
here I've got my aperture setting out to 6.3 my focus area is set to about a
third of the way into the picture so I'm getting the most depth of field so let's
just take that shot and we can have a look at that in the video so if I
thought that shot was a little bit too dark then I'll use exposure value
compensation to make it lighter so to change the control from the aperture to
exposure value compensation we use that back control dial again so press that in
and you notice exposure value compensation so in yellow and then I can
make it brighter by going to the right which gives me positive exposure value
compensation or I can go to the left to make it darker so in this case I want to
make it just one third of a stop brighter indicated by just one bar on
the exposure value compensation scale so now let's take that shot and we'll see
that just just a little bit brighter now as with most situations you want to be
using an ISO which is as low as possible so use the lowest native ISO of the
camera in this case it's going to be ISO or one to five so they will get the
lowest noise and the best image quality so always try and use your base is are
or notifier so when you're shooting any other aperture priority or in shutter
priority mode so the aperture will determine the amount of depth of field
and has already stated if you've got a very large aperture and the largest
aperture in this camera at its widest angle is F 2.8 so that gives me the
shallowest amount of depth of field so you'd use that sort of aperture you were
taking portraits close-up where you've just want the eyes and the nose and the
ears in focus on behind that will be out of focus if you using something like 300
millimetres focal lens something like that if you wanted more depth of field
than you turn this to a higher number so all the way up to f/8 if you want the
maximum depth of field so the zone of focus from your foreground to your
background will be the most you can get from the camera you get more depth of
field with a wider angle than you do with telephoto so let's have a practical
example here I'm trying to shoot this blossom here on this cherry tree you see
I'm in aperture priority mode and because of the zoom that I've got set in
the camera I've got the maximum zoom of 400 millimetres so that means my
smallest aperture or my widest aperture is actually f4 so that gives me an
amount of depth of field which you can see on screen now which is the
blossoming focus with the background nicely out-of-focus so if I just take
that picture we can have a look at that in the video now if we change the
aperture and again I'm going to move the back control down to the right so we're
now going to go to f/8 which is the smallest aperture which gives the
greatest depth of field so if we take that picture now you can probably see in
the background already that the branches which are about 10 foot behind this
blossom are starting to come into focus so that is a little bit more visually
distracting than the picture we saw with the aperture down at f/4 so with a
smaller aperture you get more depth of field and with a wide aperture you get
less depth of field so that is aperture priority now if you look at shutter
priority and it's the case of just turning the top mode dial so they
s aligns with the whites index mark on the camera so now we're looking at
changing the value of the shutter speed when we use the black control dial so as
we turn to the right you notice that the shutter speeds get faster so the
exposure to get shorter and if I go to the left the shutter speeds get longer
so the exposure gets longer and then it gets brighter remember where photography
light is your friend and darkness is your enemy so the more light you can get
into the camera by either using a longer shutter speed or a wider aperture the
better you'll be rewarded with image quality so for example if you now a
shooting sports you want to be using something like the reciprocal of a focal
length so if you've got a focal length say of 200 millimetres set you want to
be using a shutter speed which is about one two hundredth of a second
so that will arrest the subject motion remember camera image stabilization on
it corrects for image shake caused by movement of your hands the actual
shutter speed will determine just how much subject motion blur there is now
you can create intentional subject motion blur by having long exposures and
those sort of situations you would create for waterfalls or silky smooth
seas when you want to have that calm look again against the skyline that sort
of effect so seascapes and long exposure to night scapes now won't you be using
the longer shutter speeds to create that and if necessary you'll be using neutral
density over the lens to reduce the amount of light coming into the camera
so you can get those long shutter speeds and as before if you felt that the
exposure is dark or light you would use exposure value compensation so again
just press in the back control dial to the right so you make it brighter until
left to make it darker and it's as simple as that now there are some
situations where you may find that your aperture and shutter speed combination
are flashing in red this means for the set I saw that you've got at the moment
you'll find that the camera can't correct either the shutter speed or the
aperture depending if you're in shutter priority or
priority mode at the moment we are in shutter priority mode so this means that
the aperture can't go any wider than the F 3.8 that we've got at the moment and
that's because of the zoom that we've got set on the camera so the only way we
can get rid of that flashing combination is to make the shutter speed longer so
we're allowing more light into the camera or we raise the sensitivity by
raising the ISO so that's first of all raise the ISO so let's go to something
like a thousand ISO or twelve hundred you press the aperture and you can now
see that it's in control so the other way was to actually increase the shutter
speed so let's go back to our ISO 200 and this time we'll change the shutter
speed down to say a sixtieth and you can see that we're under control well that's
it for this short video regarding the aperture and shutter priority mode I
hope you found that useful now in part four of this series we're looking at
what some people call the holy grail for photography and that is manual exposure
now there's nothing complex about manual exposure you've only got three variables
to play with aperture shutter speed and the ISO and you've already seen a pitch
control the depth of field should speed controls your amount of subject motion
blur and the ISO you normally lock down to the lowest ISO to give you the best
image quality so really money lights poser is down to those two variables
again aperture and shutter speed you don't have exposure compensation to
worry about because you'll be using either the aperture or the shutter speed
to give you the brightness that you want for that particular scene so we've taken
away one variable for you in my equation I always add light as the fourth
component so instead of out of an exposure triangle I have what you call
an exposure square so light there's also a component of your exposure so it's
color temperature whether it's warm or whether it's cold and whether it's
bright and contrasting or it's dull and soft so you like can be a critical part
of your components which will also consider when we're shooting in the
manual mode so if you are a new viewer to the channel and you like what you see
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so as usual thanks very much for watching please do it cake take care
and of course if you've not checked out my photographic blog I'll put a link to
that in the video description below check out what so they're on panasonic
lumix bridge cameras and microphones and the canon eos m 50 so until the next
video thanks again for watching please do take care and I hope to see you all
in the next one good bye for now