huge thanks to everybody that helped on the party party presents that we've got
a body work and collectively we got about 80 hours into getting this thing
ready for the next stage which is high build polyester surfacer Polly surfaces
to me or the last step and body work because they build like crazy and like
me to finally block and flatten everything out crisp up the style lines
and they don't shrink back and it's the perfect under code for your final
sanding primers me show you what I'm talking about
these are two parts of over mix of a 2k urethane and I build polyester look at
the difference
the 2k has already started to shrink and suck itself back and kind of crumble and
fall apart
even after a couple of weeks however the the hockey puck of high build Polly
could have her nails with this sucker and check this out
it hasn't shrunk back a bit they were both shot and the over mix was in the
same container
PPS cup that struck back quite a bit and it's crumbling its continuing to shrink
over its cure cycle for this stuff on this is what I want is my foundation for
primer surfacer on the bodies esli your polyester surfaces it's really important
that you have it thoroughly agitated mix if you got a shaker
good for you if you don't just stare the heck out of it make sure nothing comes
up on the stick
now there's a mix ratio for this is five percent by a volume or if you don't have
a scale
it's a little hard to tell here is the easy thing that I've figured out they
give you two of these per gallon of poly surfacer for courts to courts for each
I just makes a court and pour the half of this in and you've got the right next
ratio pretty simple
don't have nitrile gloves get them from eastwood protect it
no glove no love the port lids and solve a problem that I've had for years and
body shots
that's how to get your surfacer out of a full gallon it's a really trick set up
before the next full court
Lord
all right I've got an accurate mix sure
i'm using a huge orifice gun this is a 2.5 tip and it sprays out
well its price huh pretty pretty aggressively you're going to use a lot
of it so make sure you got enough for your project
don't forget your mat spray technique with a high bill Polly surfacer is very
different than paint your gun speed is slow or overlap is about 75% and you're
fairly close to the substrate
take your time spring and don't worry about stacking the primer surfacer
that's what this stuff is made for you won't get pin holes and it will rarely
ever run on you when you're priming large areas of a car like this
you're not concerned so much about overspray are keeping your wedges down
that's kind of a material you're focusing on the panel that your spring
and then moving on to the next one
in essence your zone priming at the same time as your priming the entire panel
keep in mind that a good portion of this surfacer is going to end up on the floor
because it's not paint its body filler
you just happened to be spraying it on the panel three coats should be plenty
enough for an initial blocking and to allow you to see how straight the car is
we will probably end up doing a second session of poly primer before we move on
to a 2k when you're wanting to make a vehicle as straight as we want to make
said sled
I consider this a mandatory and necessary step
so we've got a gallery of contour - Polly surface on this car
can we send it and painted know the work is well it's about halfway done
because most of this stuff just by the nature of the beast is going to end up
and powder on the floor so we're going to use a spray guide coat my coat
everything
lock the heck out of it see if there's any pinwheels miss any waves and he did
so leave
and then move on to the ideal to Kate which thankfully Eastwood makes in black
and then we'll block that again and then and only then will be ready for pain
ok