- [Man] Yeah, we got a visual on the wave.
We'll be riding it in less than a minute.
Or maybe two, probably a minute.
Got to start surfing now.
Over. (radio beeps)
- It's super fun and playful.
And, because it's hard, I'm always learning
and getting better and not catching the wave
then catching back up and it's just something
that's really awesome to interact with
for my own personal psyche.
The bore tide is a beautiful thing that happens
because the moon pulls on the water,
and as this water rushes up the Turnagain Arm,
the shape of the Turnagain Arm creates a wave.
- I surf the bore tide because it's special.
Not a lot of people are out here.
Sometimes, the excess is cold and lengthy in time
so not a lot of people are into it.
But, I like sweating.
I like breathing.
That's another reason why I like to surf the bore tide too.
- It's an aspect of new and excitement.
It's an aspect of power.
This is kind of, kind of my life now.
And I kind of feel like, it's part of the reason
I'm here on Earth is to share this wave with the world.
- This rhythmic thing I get to tap into,
and whenever I go out and surf the bore tide,
no matter what I got goin' on,
once I get out of the water, I just feel good.
- The bore tide is this amazing wave
because it goes on for so long.
Like you could be paddling around for months in the ocean
and not get as much wave time.
And with that said, you're surfing by glaciers
in this ever-changing mountainous area.
So, it's like the most amazing view ever.
Just standing by the Arm and listening to the wave
is so soothing and nice and yet,
this strong, intense force is just a humbling,
fulfilling feeling being up here.
- I will keep coming back and surfing the bore tide
as long as she will have me.
She is powerful and amazing and right now
the draw and the lure is so strong
that I can't imagine not being here.
- I think I will keep coming back to surf the bore tide
definitely all of this lifetime.
I don't know about future lifetimes,
if I'll end up back around here.
It keeps drawing me back in and sometimes,
I think about how I could just go surf regular waves
and then, I keep finding myself at the bore tide.