we're ready
look at the pattern that has here i'll do another one here but you can see that
it's tiny it's tiny the atomization is tiny but it's a really nice product it's
very focused which is another good reason for us to do this repair with
this product
so here we go I'm gonna sneak up on it
there's a coat
the overspray is gone
yes I'm the overspray is gone bag
it's live
anything can happen this is my captain kirk bluetooth device and it's not
because I'm expecting an important call from my attorneys are my bookie
it's so you guys can ask us questions and that's another great feature of the
live broadcast is that you guys can get in touch with Eastwood ask me questions
on the floor live
so anyway like my captain kirk fell out sorry about that anyway I can't remember
where I was at
but I was going to say basically that the overspray is minimal I've bagged the
car
it's just good insurance guys it's just good insurance so while that dries were
we are going to put another coat on there but i wanted to show you this
vendor right here
now you can probably see the clear difference between that is dull and hazy
and that is really glossy essentially we're going to end up with this type of
a repair on the side of the hood of jaded
now i hope you guys can see that because in my monitor it looks very very
distinct you can see the definite separation line
so let me kind of demonstrate what happens on a repair like that
here's the reason you can't blend clear blending means creating the illusion
that one spotted in pot apart clear is part of the rest of the panel back in
the lacquer days
nitrocellulose and acrylic lacquers were thermo plastic
there's two types of of paints there's thermoplastic and thermoset here's the
way to remember which is which
thermoset means it's locked set like concrete locked in
it gets locked in with a chemical reaction
it's thermoset means it has a catalyst and it's chemically changed forever
once it cross-links once that catalyst takes over and makes it something else
so it's locked in it can never never be refloated ever so that's why you can't
blend clears back in the lacquer days you could do this and this clear coat
would actually eat into the panel here and it would become the same layer it
would actually bond into itself and reflow itself
that's thermal plastic plastic meaning in flux
so the fact that you can't blend clear anymore
well you can get around it and this is a temporary fix here
so what happens is ok here's your medal
once you're blending your clear coats out here's a code
the tapers off you come with your second coat it tapers off even more and maybe
you do a third coat and it tapers off even more
so what you have right here
its weak and come back over the hood here can
what you end up with on that edge is this as you're clear tapers off its
going to get weak and sooner or later down the road
you're going to have this happen this is why a body shop will always paint to the
next available panel break because this is not a procedure that the week that a
body shop can offer a lifetime warranty on the paint and every body shop
that's legitimate that will do insurance repairs and claims has to offer a
lifetime paint warranty and the rules of the different paint companies doesn't
matter what they are is that you have to create a situation you can't create a
potential failure
so what would happen here in a crash shop is that we would do our base coat
repair and we wouldn't spot it in here
it's kind of crazy we would blend until the next panel break and that's just
that's the best way to do it up but sometimes in a pinch if you're trying to
save money if you know you're going to paint it next season
you got some rocker scabs or something like that as a matter of fact on jaded i
did a repair like this i can't show it to you because the cars bag but it was
one of those one of the fake side scoops a fiberglass scoops
I burned through this is the day that the day before it was going to get
loaded onto the truck for the SEMA Show
I'm not having a panel that I've burned through with a buffer idiot idiot who is
my mistake
so we did a spot job I back master it and I did this very thing on the panel
for jaded now it's coming back through a little bit and you can still polish it
down but it eventually I'm gonna have to repaint that scoop
I didn't have time at the time it that's the circumstance that you want to do
this type of a row i'm going to call it a blended clear but that's the
circumstance that you're going to do that but this is this week edge right
here
so in my blabbing we're ready for a second coat
and we'll test it
yeah we'll touch test it another great thing about the 2k arrow spray is that
it's try to touch really really quickly so we'll hit with another coat
all right here we go
yeah
and there goes my captain kirk again but you'll notice how i focused on the
middle of that repair and I took advantage of the outside edges here I
kind of faded it out there may be a little bit of a bulb there but it will
polish out and the end result of that is that you know i don't know if you can
see there may be some discoloration in the right light but it's not going to
flake and it's not going to grow any further so that is going to be an
effective repair
so after about 24 hours of dry time
let's talk about how to fix that what we're going to do is work on this fender
here
let's assume that this the hood side of jaded is this fender and by the way
ask some questions call in at the end of this thing calling now it doesn't matter
talk to me if you've got questions about this stuff let me know i'll do my best
to help and if you're not watching if you watching this later go to the
eastwood online restoration form
I check in there quite often and there's a lot of other great moderators and
there's people with all levels of experience that can help you if you got
questions like this
questions about these procedures or anything else with your restoration
Eastwood's the answer man
pardon me that's not because of the clear coat the overspray is gone is
because i'm working on some sign of stuff here
so what we're doing here the way I prepped this is I scuffed
let's just say my repair was there I scuff the rest of this with 1000 grip to
give it a nice tooth to to work on to to bite into you still have to have a
mechanical adhesion
I've seen this before there's two types of adhesion is mechanical adhesion and
there's chemical adhesion chemical adhesion happens between two wet coats
mechanical adhesion happens when you sand the surface and the coating that
you're putting on top of it has something to bite into this is obviously
mechanical adhesion because like we said we can't reflow this clear coat
it's impossible is changed forever chemically it's cross-linked it's
thermoset remember that term
so we've got thousand grit sanding marks underneath here
and by the way i don't know if you noticed or not you know so I'm not
trying too hard sell this stuff but look at the beautiful do I realized the
sickness of image look at the gloss that is a really nice clear coat
and you know i mean there's there's this is not a cheesy repair there's no
there's no compromise there whatsoever
so what I'm going to do here is dressed this repair and get it ready for buffing
because what we're going to do is buff the difference and blend it with the
buffer
basically we're going to create the illusion that it's a continuous coat of
clear
another thing we want to do here is clean so he's my organic cleaner again
just to get that the dust off of it just to make sure that I know that I'm not
grinding anything stupid into the paint and it feels pretty good listen listen
to the difference
that's overspray ice anymore
whatever so what I'm using is 2000 grit sandpaper
this is black ice paper you can also get this from eastwood 2000 grid is ultra
fine
it's typically used for cutting and rubbing your final top coat to thousands
very fine it's very nice to buff with if you don't have water on hand like I
don't have water on hand
you need a little bit of lubrication with the paper so i'm gonna use my my
organic cleaner and I'm not going to do this time I'm going to focus on this up
here because I think we can see this better but I'm being very very careful
and I'm just barely knocking some of the debris off of that edge
I don't want to go crazy because I don't want to lift up this edge I don't want
to compromise that because as we do
there's a potential of it
of it becoming visible and you know we're trying to create an illusion here
for David Copperfield in the moment right here folks
so not know if you can see that or not is hazed a little bit
so now we're ready to start buffing now back in the day with the lacquer paint
jobs that i was born at a time to where I was working in collision shops when I
saw the transition between lacquer acrylic enamel synthetic enamel urethane
enamel into full urethanes now into waterborne so I've seen a lot of changes
in the automotive of repair industry and back in the day with the lacquers you
could get some good compound and you can hand rub that glossy
not anymore it's like trying to polish the sidewalk this stuff is hard even
though it's only been shot yesterday it's a little softer but it's still
difficult to to bring that up to gloss
so what I'm going to do now is there a little bit of compound on there this is
liquid ice
I love this stuff it's available again
guess we're below your screen we're going to use just a little bit about a
dime-size a compound
I've got a variable speed buffer here's a very important thing for you guys to
notice
watch this see the way that turns around
it's clockwise here's why that's important
what I'm doing is polishing this way i'm using the top edge of the buffer of the
buffing pad now in my instructional videos the color sanding and buffing
video I'm going to tell you to lay the sucker almost flat on a circumstance
like this
you want to rub one direction so you can utilize the top edge of your buffing
wheel to buff into the repair are actually sorry away from the repair
because this side
on the bottom is going that way it would be bumping into the repair so very very
important
use your tools to help you facilitate the solution
so now just a camera guy can can see I tell you what I'm going to do first
will dress up
he's laughing if you can probably see the campus shake it
I there is never mind i'm not even going there i'm not even going there
all right look at our speed
we've got 600 that's a nice low speed that that's going to get you in trouble
we don't want that as low as the buffer can go you're going to get enough
friction with the compound which is actually liquid sand paper with a low
speed low rpm and incidentally this pad is step two of the liquid is three step
pad there's wool blue and then a white foam
this is intermediate since this clear coat is somewhat fresh the the
intermediate pad will work
so now I'm but I'm buffing out away from the repair and i'm just giving it a
little love
okay now what's not there anymore my compound okay stop
when you see your compound is gone get some more if you drive off you get way
too much friction you get way too much heat
and you're going to get in trouble big time so watch your pad watch your
compound
once it's once it's gone reapply
yeah i'm using just the top edge and feathering the trigger so it's really
low and i'm moving around i know it's driving him nuts but I don't want to
stay on one spot to too long
it's looking good i'm looking at a different angle than you guys
and when you're inspecting when you're bluffing always look at about a 45
degree angle i don't know if you can see that can all lean back
you can see it's coming around pretty good but there's still a little bit of
haze there
so my compound is not all gone but it's nearly gone
so what I'm going to do is hit with another I don't know another dime sized
said
looks like there's a pigeon in here anyway
yeah